Tobermory

tobermory 3

Welcome – The Tobermory clubhouse also has an honour system for green fees which is especially welcoming. As it happens, we were greeted by a couple of border collies running around on the 9th (see photo)

Walk – “Tobermory?” More like “Toberlone” of Matterhorn fame. Frankly, the place seems like the most unlikely place for a golf course that some angry, drunken Scotsman must have literally stumbled upon and thought that he would take revenge on the world by creating 18 holes here. And when, he did so, he did it in the most cantankerous ways possible. If there was a natural lie for any extended distance, did put a hole on it? Noooo. Instead, he would put a couple of holes across it. You get a flavour of what is in store on the very first hole where you are climbing not one, but two peaks (covered with deep rough in all sorts of random spots) to get to the green. The payoff is the most expansive views we have seen on a golf course since the Azores (and even there it were mostly a few holes at the summit, while the entire Tobermory course seems perched upon stunning vistas).

Water – No water hazards or streams (you are the top of a hillock from which all water is running away basically), but it is a short 9 holes.

Wildlife – Various seabirds.

Wind Down – We concluded our visit to Tobermory popping down to the harbour which is as quaint as any on the Italian Riviera. We dined a Macgochans whose upstairs deck has a lovely view over the water. We didn’t have any pups with us, but were sat next to a pair of lovely terriers hunkering in the cool shade under the table and waiting hopefully for some scraps.

For a firsthand account from a dog’s perspective on Tobermory, check out Poppy’s post – Poppy goes back to Mull – Poppysocks

Tobermory 1Tobermory 2

tobermory dogs

tobermory 4

Craignure

Craignure GC

Welcome – This was our first experience with an “honesty box” green fee. Just rock up, take an envelope, take out the bag tag, put in the green fee in cash, and put the envelope into the honesty box.

Walk – A small 9-hole, flat (seaside) course (with much shorter to walk for the ladies whose tees were often 100 yards or more ahead of the gents).

Water – A number of creeks cross the course, but I suspect they are quite brackish, but the clubhouse is never far away with water on tap.

Wildlife – Seabirds

Wind Down – After our round, we dropped in on the neighbouring, dog-friendly Glenforsa Hotel Restaurant which pleasantly surprised us. Compared to our hotel (Mull hotel & Spa, which had a nice restaurant), it had more items on the menu, more distinctive items on the menu (escargot, steak and ale pie), was more accommodating in their service, sat closer to the water and was cheaper by about 30%.

Iona

Iona dogs

Iona is an absolutely legendry golf course which is a true experience to play. But the exceptionality of the play is piqued by the unprecedented degree of “hazards” literally sprinkled throughout the course.

  • Water – The biggest water hazard in the UK – the Atlantic Ocean – is the least of your worries as the course is set over 100 yards off of it (still makes for a lovely vista).
  • Sand – The course does feature the biggest, nastiest sand trap I have ever come upon. A sprawling, malignant monstrosity perched on a steep incline to boot.
  • Visibility – Our hole course, Temple GC, has a famous 10th hole with a blind par 3 into a 200 yard crater so deep that you can see the flag in it. That hole is nearly ALL of Iona. I wonder if this topology is to minimize the impact of the course on the spectacular sea views by eliminating the visibility of most of the flags? There are poles to guide your drives in the general direction of the hidden flag, but many were knocked over by the wind I assume. A scorecard with map is a must (which you buy at the local Post Office for £1…the course’s primary source of income), but even then finding your next hole is a bit of a treasure hunt, especially if…
  • Sheep –Not just obstacles to avoid hitting, but also were cuddled around the Hole 2 tee marker so we couldn’t find it (see photo)
  • Flowers – Purple or pink balls are recommended as lots of white and yellow flowers and clumps of white sheep wool further add to the scavenger hunt feel of a round (see photo)
  • Natural Fertilizer – This you won’t have any trouble finding. But you will struggle to avoid. We played our own personal rule that you got to move away from poo instead of sending it flying.

So why would one want to put up with so many impediments?

  • Creatures – For those so included, the creature caddies provide a distinctive and fun vibe to the day.
  • Chipping Practice – The course essentially thin greenery on beach sand which is quite drenched in many places. So there are no real “fairways” and even the concept of a “green” is questionable. So it is nearly 5k of chipping and light rough practice in challenging conditions.
  • Scenery – Not just the expansive ocean, but the curious, rocky, distinctly Scottish undulating topology
  • Challenge – All of these idiosyncrasies add up to a unique challenge for the jaded golfer.

Golf Links described it as, “Golf in its purest form.”

And for the standard 4 course assessments…

Welcome – Well, there is no welcome at all as there is no clubhouse. Just a sign on the front gate (see photo) advising to have dogs on leads (for the sake of the ubiquitous livestock).

Walk – One would think it is flat, but holes. Lots of blind holes. And they are made blind by the quite dramatically undulating landscape which involves its share of inclines to hike.

Water – Ironically so Scotland – land of rivers, waterfalls and lochs – there was no fresh water anywhere to be seen (aside from an ever-present ocean), so bring some for hot days.

Wildlife – Sheep!!! And occasionally cattle (see photo) and the various sea birds.

Wind Down – Every pub and restaurant in Iona appears to be dog friendly. We had a delightful meal at the Argyll Hotel down the road from us by the pier. The black raspberry & cherry ice cream from Iona the menu was simply some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had in the UK.

Iona gc 2

iona sand 1

iona sand 2

Iona poo

iona dogs 2

iona cattle